Looking out over the moonlit ocean. Arca Swiss 4x5, Kodak Ektachrome.
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Northeast Coast Road Trip
Check your tyres and fill up your gas tank as Trinidad Dreamscape's road trip gets going again. We have provided a
map
of Trinidad so that you can get your bearings. We weren't joking about
filling up the tank; this is a long trip along winding roads. Also,
make sure your car is in relatively good working order, especially the
brakes, and be prepared for some evasive manoeuvres as you may
encounter landslides along the way. Damaged sections of the roadway are
often poorly lit at night so be alert to prevent the unfortunate event
of skydiving off a precipice with your car. Forgive us for reminding
you of the obvious, but do not drive if you have, or intend to, consume
alcohol. And finally, don't forget to take along a garbage bag to put
the rubbish in!
The trip to the Toco lighthouse should take about one hour and forty
minutes from St. Augustine. Proceed to a V intersection at the
beginning of the Valencia stretch. Take the left branch road and follow
the main road. Road signs have been greatly improved recently, and
navigating the route should be easy. You will eventually meet the Toco
main road at a T-junction. Turn left to proceed to Toco. It is now just
a matter of following the road. You will soon pass the satellite dish
at Matura followed by Matura village. Matura beach can be reached via
Orosco road, but the beach is a restricted wild-life refuge for nesting
Leatherback turtles. Access is only granted with an appropriate pass,
and you must be accompanied by a guide from the Ministry of
Agriculture/Marine Affairs/Wildlife Division. "Nature Seekers Tours,
Inc." are authorised to operate on moonless nights to allow those
interested to view the nesting turtles.
Further along the road, you will come to Saline Bay. There
will be a road to Saline Bay that runs parallel to the Rio Seco river
and its new bridge. Along the river are Bloodwood trees. The
beach is approximately 2.1km long. The bay is good for bathing except
that there is a deep channel that forms underwater because of the river
mouth. On the opposite side of Rio Seco bridge is the trail-head to Rio
Seco waterfalls. Saline Bay is a popular picnic area and has
rudimentary beach facilities. Salybia Nature Resort and Spa is located
nearby.
There are numerous areas that you can stop and enjoy the view along the
way to Toco. Some are more developed than others. There are also a
couple well hidden beaches for you to explore: look carefully!
Photographic interlude
Balandra Bay
You will arrive at Balandra beach approximately forty minutes after
passing Saline Bay. The beach is 1.8km long and slopes gently to the
water. There is moderate vegetation including some almond trees. There
is a small fishing village to the north of the beach and Balandra river
opens into the middle of the bay. Bathing is generally safe at Balandra.
Sena Bay
This is my favourite pit-stop beach, but I would not recommend bathing
here. The waves are usually quite large and there is no prominent
headland to protect you from strong currents. The beach has a moderate
amount of vegetation and can become quite overgrown. Watch where you
step as it is not unknown for snakes (or worse) to nest in the coconut
branches strewn along the ground. The beach becomes pebbly near the
breakwater.
Salybia Beach
Proceed past Rampanalgas village and turn right onto the Paria Main
Road at the junction with the Toco Main Road. The Toco Composite school
is nearby. On your left you will see many large trees with minimal
underbrush and large clearings used for picnics. Depending on when you
visit, you may be unfortunate enough to witness a man-made
environmental cataclysm whereby the beach is converted into a
repository for refuse. This usually follows a beachside fete during the
Carnival season, commonly sponsored by radio stations. This is a great
beach for bathing, though it can be spoilt when rotting garbage goes
floating past you. Nonetheless, the water is clear and the waves are
small. The eastern end of the beach is protected by a reef that you can
walk out to at LOW TIDE. Breakers become very dangerous as the tide
comes in. Additionally, it is advisable to wear sandals on the reef
because of the presence of stinging corals. The best advice would be,
of course, to stay away from the reef (or any reef for that matter) if
you don't have training in marine conservation methods. Coral reefs are
very fragile ecosystems and stomping around and, worse, breaking parts
off a reef undoes hundreds of years worth of growth.
You should be aware of a very stong long-shore current along the beach.
The currents are strongest in the central portion of the bay.
The road trip continues on to the Toco lighthouse which can be reached
after passing over a wooden bridge spanning the Salybia river.
Toco lighthouse and environs
Our road trip ends today at the Toco lighthouse. It has been recently
been 'renovated'. There is a path to the northeast promontary of the
island past the lighthouse.
Update - 2006
Update - 2007